First, raise the front end and support it with jackstands. I use the outer part of the crossmember to support the front end…just don’t use the control arms, since they need to be free to move.
Obviously, this is what it looks like before you start:
And with the wheel removed:
The first thing I did was remove the brake hose from the caliper. To do this, you’ll have to disconnect it from the hard line first and cap off the hard line (I got some caps from AutoZone…they don’t seal completely, but good enough that you won’t lose much fluid). Then remove the retaining clip from the strut tower and remove the hose from the bracket. Then you can remove the hose from the caliper. Cap the hole in the caliper, then reattach the hose to the hard line and cap the end of the hose. The caps I got seal the hose end better than they seal the hard line end.
Then, remove the two bolts that connect the steering arm to the bottom of the strut tower. In this picture I’ve circled the front one. The front bolt is shorter than the rear one…remember this when you reassemble it. This may require some hammering on a wrench or a good impact wrench to get these loosened.
Leave the strut assembly resting on the steering arm for now, and remove the 4 nuts at the top of the strut tower, inside the engine bay. I put a mark on one of the studs so I knew how it was situated and could install it in the parts car the same way (likewise for the one coming from the parts car).
Now put a floor jack under the outer part of the hub and raise it enough to allow the bottom of the strut assembly to clear the nut holding the ball joint on the steering arm… you may need to wedge something between the control arm and the crossmember to prevent the control arm from raising with the strut assembly. Then slowly pull the bottom of the strut assembly away from the steering arm. Once it’s clear, slowly lower the jack while holding the spring, and gradually pull it out of the fender.
That’s all there is to it! As the workshop manuals always say “assembly is in reverse order” After I got done I decided that this whole process would probably be made easier if the sway bar was disconnected from the control arm, especially for reassembly.