• OEM S2000 button
• auto relay w/4 blades (Radio Shack, 30 amp minimum, around $5)
• spool of 20 awg and 12 awg wire
• assorted wire butt connectors (some with and some without insulation)
• various wire taps and blade connectors
• very small shrink wrap
• mounting media (used super glue and 3M tape)
• Dremel tool to slightly enlarge cig lighter hole (necessity)
• wire tester (very helpful)
Caution: Remember to disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning any electrical work on your car.
Remove all dash parts surrounding the steering wheel (including gauge cluster and of course the housing surrounding the steering column). The gauges will have to be unhooked as well as the cig lighter and the pop up headlight switch.
Prepping the button
You will need to open the switch to verify exactly which leads go where and compare them the wiring diagram that we have provided, double check the configuration. We cut off the plastic (used for the factory S2000 harness) surrounding the 5 leads with the Dremel tool. We cut off the two leads that are not used inside the button in order to allow more room to connect wires to the remaining 3 leads (which you will notice is not that much room, we actually bent them slightly apart too). Of the remaining three leads, the middle one should be the common power lead for the light and the button. The lead on one side will be the ground for the light where as the other lead will be the lead for the button going to the relay (see diagram). At this point you will want to attach your 20awg wires to all three leads with bare/un-insulated butt connectors. We used three different colors of wires (ex. red for power, black for ground, green for the relay), this made it easier later on to distinguish the switch leads. Leave plenty of wire attached to the leads you will shorten them later on. Take the shrink-wrap tubing and place it around the connections so that the leads never touch and short out. We then wrapped the wires in 5″ of wire loom to keep them all together and easier to work with. You can then set the button aside for later mounting.
Prepping the mounting location
You must first remove the cig. Lighter and all associated pieces, save and set them aside for now. The remaining hole is too small to accommodate the button. So, we took the Dremel tool with a grinding attachment and ground down the inner edges of the hole until it fit perfect (btw don’t breath the burning ABS plastic fumes, they are toxic). Take off a little at a time and keep trying to see if it fits. Remember it is better to go slow instead of taking a bunch of material off and making the hole too big, also try to keep it round. Stop when you are able to slide the button through the hole and notice that it fits flush with the seat, just snug (it does not need to be tight).
Mounting the button
Take the button and place it in the hole. We made sure the words are facing upwards correctly and applied a little bit of super glue on the back of the chrome ring of the button. This helped it from not turning inside the hole. Next we wrapped the button housing with one piece of 3M double-sided tape and placed the original plastic cig. lighter heat shield around the button, securing it with the two screws (the plastic housing may only touch the button housing in a few spots). We also wrapped tape around the back of the button and the screwed in mount from the cig lighter. This helped to hold the back of the button. You now have the button mounted in its new home. You can now turn the gauge cluster over to see what it is going to look like (sweet, isn’t it).
Wiring the key switch harness
Since you have all the dash parts off, you should be able to see the harness that is running into the key switch assembly. The harness runs under the steering column and to the left side of the column and then down the column from there (just follow it from the key hole and you will find it). Detach the harness at the back of the key switch. You will need to cut one wire from the harness and tap into another. Cut the 12 awg starting wire on the key switch harness. It will be a black wire with a blue stripe (see wiring diagram). Once the cut has been made, tape off the end that is going into the key switch. Next, take a 36″ long piece of your 12 awg wire and connect it to the other end of the black and blue wire you just severed, use a shielded butt connector. Next tap into, (DO NOT CUT), the black with green stripe wire with another 36″ long piece of 12 awg wire & wire-tap. Re-connect the factory harness into the key switch.
Tip: Instead of soldering your wires to the switch or attempting to fabricate a custom harness, use the electrical connector for a computer’s disk or CDROM drive to plug directly into the start button.
Wiring the relay
Bring in the gauge cluster with the newly mounted switch. Select a home for the relay, we choose to 3M tape it to the back side of the upper gauge cluster supports (but don’t stick it in place yet, just know where you are going to put it so you can trim all the wires accordingly). Run the wire form the start button switch to the relay using female blade connectors, taking care to route them under supports and such. You don’t want to crimp or pinch any of these wires when re-assembling the dash. Use the wiring schematic for details. Now run the middle wire from the button to something that is powered up by the “ON” position of the key switch (WARNING do not use the “ACC” position, the starter will work but the engine will not start). We tapped into the cruise control power lead (which you have to test to get the right wire on the cruise harness, I believe it was the third from the left, but double check it). The last wire on the button goes to a common ground. The other blade on the relay also goes to a common ground. .BTW, we tapped both grounds (button & relay) into the Cruise Control ground. The last two 12 awg wires will need to go up to the relay. Connect these using female blade connectors also.
Place the ground cable back on the battery and do not tighten, just make sure it has a good connection. Place the key in the ignition and turn to the “ON” position. Push the start button!!! It should start right up. Turn the engine off and finish up.
If it does not start recheck all connections including the battery.
Reassemble – Put the dash back together.