Starting with a completely intact interior, there is a cover plate on either side. Remove each of those and remove the screws holding the lower dash panels to the metal frame.

Driver’s side:

Passenger’s side:

Once that is completed, you can move on to removing the lower dash panels. First, remove the steering column cover. It simply unscrews and snaps apart. A twist of the key light, and the cover is free.

Next you need to remove the two screws holding the fuse box up. Take the fuse box cover off, and Look at it from below. In two of the recessed holes will be screws. Remove them and let the fuse panel hang free. Remove the screw holding the lower dash panel next. Remove the set screw on the choke knob (if applicable), and the nut on the choke knob shaft. Now move on to taking the crotch vent cover off, all the remaining screws, and the vent slider knob. Be sure none of the electrical connections are hung.

Once this is done, the panel should come outward enough to unplug the mirror switch and dimmer switch. My dimmer switch came apart, but I was able to put it back together with little fuss. This is what you should be left with:

The right side of the driver’s side lower panels is easier. Just remove all the screws (be sure to look up under the lip!), pull it out, and unhook the lighter and cruise switch (if applicable).

Right panel connections:

Once you have the lower drivers side disassembled, you should be looking about like this:

Now we can move on to the passenger side. Remove the glove box latch screws, and the two that are visble on the side. Remove all the screws on the lower dash panel. There is one that is easy to miss (pictured looking up from console):

Once the lower panel is removed, take the remaining glove box screws out. Pop the glovebox light down, and unplug it and the switch for it. The glove box is now free.

You should be left looking similar to this:

Now for the fun part (not). Removing the gauge cluster. I have modified mine (broken it) to come out faster, so I did not take many pictures of the removal. Basically all you do is remove the screws and wrestle with it. There is a speedo cable, and 4 electrical connections to contend with.

Now we can get to work on the center console. Pull the change tray/window switches (whichever you have) out of the center, they just snap on. Remove the two screws there, and the two inside the console at the back. The console is now free. Pull the shift knob off, and the boot. Remove the heat and blower knobs. Remove the nuts behind them, and the two screws at the bottom of the radio trim. Slide it outward, making sure to unplug the light connections on each one. I am leaving the radio removal up to you.

With that done, you can remove the clock, and the two control knobs. I opted to leave the hot/cold knob on the car until I had the dash off. The knobs require some finesse to get out of the dash, as the wiring connectors are buried.

The vent controls have a slider on one end. This requires you to stand on your head for the most part. Unclip the wire, slide the small rubber piece off the shaft, and the cable slides off. (Pictured looking up from the floor):

There are a few electrical connectors on the vent controls, one is way over on the blower motor in the passenger side of the dash. Don’t unhook the black connector, its not necessary.

The center console is now apart, you should be about this far along:

Unhook the ground wire at the lower center of the radio opening. Also, remove the retainers holding the vents to the heater box. These simply pull off with a pair of pliers.

There are two hidden screws that are easy to miss. One on each side. You will have to get creative (I used a screwdriver bit and a 1/4” ratchet) to remove these, as they are installed backwards.

Driver’s side:

Passenger’s side: